Dyhrenfurth, Norman G

SKU: AUT1879


Norman Günter Dyhrenfurth (* 7 May 1918 in Breslau ) is an American mountain climber, expedition leader, cameraman and director. His greatest achievement is the line of the American Mount Everest Expedition 1963rd.  Autograph Program Signed,   10/23/1963 -  8 1/2 x 11 signed in blue ink pen on the '19th Annual Eagle Scout Recongnition Banquest 1963.'  retro leaf writting overall, very fine condition.  

"In the Second World War Norman Dyhrenfurth took on the part of American troops in the battle for the Aleutians in part. After the war he became director of a film production company and received the appointment as a lecturer at the University of California at Los Angeles , where he eventually became director of the UCLA Film School. In this position, he came with many famous directors such as Alfred Hitchcock and Fred Zinnemann in contact. Later he made ‚Äã‚Äãfilms like mountain on the edge of the abyss (Five Days One Summer) with Sean Connery and directed by Fred Zinnemann and the Order of the Dragon (The Eiger Sanction) with Clint Eastwood.

In 1955 he led an expedition to the Himalayan International Lhotse . In 1958 he was deputy head of a scientific group to search for the " Yeti ". In 1960 he went as a camera man with a Swiss Mountaineer team to Dhaulagiri .

For the year 1963 he won the National Geographic Society , the American Mount Everest expedition financed. He was commissioned to lead this expedition. Many scientists joined the expedition, including a sociologist and a psychologist, on behalf of NASA , the response and cooperation of the group under stress conditions examined. For NASA, the results were in preparation for the Apollo program to the first moon landing important.

In this expedition succeeded James Whittaker became the first American to climb to the summit via the chosen already by Edmund Hillary on the southeast ridge route, along with the Sherpa Nawang Gombu . Three weeks later bewerkstelligten two roped climbing Mount Everest via different routes. Tom Hornbein and Willi Unsoeld followed the west ridge, but then had to dodge in the north wall and climbed in since then, " Hornbein Couloir "said Ravine to the summit. They then performed the first traverse of Mount Everest and followed the rise in the Standardsüdroute team during the descent. This crossing was also the first exceedance of an eight thousand meter at all.

Dyhrenfurth and members of his crew were on their return at a reception at the White House by President John F. Kennedy awarded the rare Hubbard Medal from the National Geographic Society.

1971 Dyhrenfurth organized another expedition to Mount Everest. Like his father, on behalf of the League of Nations had led climbers in the Himalayas, he wanted to assemble an international group with no nationality dispute on Everest. Thirty climbers from thirteen different nations attended, including Chris Bonington , Don Whillans , Dougal Haston , Naomi Uemura , Toni Hiebeler , the Austrian Wolfgang ax and Leo Schlömmer and the four "Latins" in Romansh countries, the French parliamentarian Pierre Mazeaud , the Italian Carlo Mauri and the Geneva couple Yvette and Michel Vaucher.

But the expedition was ill-fated. "As prima donnas" - said Chris Bonington later described his colleagues - traveled to prominent climber. Mazeaud and Mauri had above all the aim to be seen as the first man on the top of their nation, as Yvette Vaucher was the first woman. In contrast, the summit of British, Americans and Japanese had already been climbed, so that was their interest and Dyhrenfurths the more difficult routes on the West Ridge and the southwest flank. The ax of which was vegetarian, organized food came from the other climbers with little enthusiasm. Bonington, who was intended as a guide figure pulled itself back into the planning stage, because he was concerned that his own authority would not be enough for climbers of this caliber and self-consciousness. He then went on though but a short time but then right back off, because his premonition seemed to confirm this. Later, the Indians froze Harsh Bahuguna at the beginning of a ten-day period of bad weather in a blizzard. A vote on the next steps have been manipulated in to the detriment of the "Latins" that are not normally entitled to vote Sherpas were involved, a rescheduling of the already created routes to the normal route through the more technically easier, but objectively dangerous Khumbu Icefall rejected. Mazeaud refused to participate in carrying the luggage of Anglo-Saxons and Japanese, and described the suggestion as an insult to France. Yvette Vaucher Dyhrenfurth pelted with snowballs, and described him as "Salaud" (bastard). Finally, a heated debate culminated in the base camp in the saying "Fuck off, Mazeaud" the Briton James Roberts. The day after this scandal left the four "Latins" the expedition. After another unsuccessful attempt on the southwest flank of the expedition eventually broke Dyhrenfurth prematurely.